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ORSON SCHOFIELD PHELPS,
guide and philosopher, belonged to Keene Valley and Charles
Dudley Warner. He lived in the shade of the one, and in the light of the
other. He was not a great guide. Indeed, many did not consider him even
a good one. He delighted in showing the way but not in preparing the
camp. His neighbors openly rated him as both lazy and shiftless, and of
no genius could it more truly be said that he was not a hero to his
valley. He went hunting or fishing as a housewife goes to market. What
he lacked in sporting zest, however, was offset by a love of nature and
a poetic cast of thought that made him a favorite with some of the most
intellectual men of his day.
He was born in Wethersfield, Vt., on May 6, 1817.
About 1830 he came into the Schroon Lake country with his father, who
was a surveyor. The elder Phelps had to
trace out some old lot lines, and his boy
helped him. Their work gave them a glimpse of some of the higher
mountains, and Orson conceived a youthful but abiding love for them. He
returned home with his father, but only to wait for an opportunity of
coining back to the wilderness. He made it a year or two later by
finding employment at the Adirondack Iron
Works. He stayed there till Mr. Henderson's death. Then he turned from a
commercial career to the more congenial freedom of an outdoor life. He
wandered over to Keene Valley and settled there permanently. He married
a native maiden by the name of Melinda Lamb, who developed oddities of
temperament and tricks of speech that matched well with those of her
more conspicuous spouse. She never fell under the charm of Mr. Warner's
pen, however, and so remained in the penumbra of the literary lime-light
that was focused on her husband.
After his marriage,
Phelps built a little home for himself
and wife in a cozy nook near Prospect Hill, a little off the main road.
Near the house is a bubbling stream and some pretty falls, to which
Phelps's name has been attached. In this spot he lived and died. His
hobby, which developed into a remunerative specialty, was climbing
mountains. This exclusiveness led to his being called
"Old Mountain Phelps"— a name in which he
took both pride and pleasure. When asked to lead the way up some
unfamiliar trail, he would often say: "So you want
Old Mountain Phelps to show you the way,
do you. Well, I caller late he kin do it."
His favorite mountain
was Marcy, and he boasted of having climbed it over a hundred
times. In 1849 he blazed the first trail to its summit from the east,
going in from Lower Ausable Lake and then passing Haystack and the head
of Panther Gorge. Later he cut what was known as the Bartlett
Mountain trail. About 1850 he guided two
ladies over it to the summit of Marcy. They were the first women to make
the complete ascent, and the feat of getting them safely to the top and
back gave Phelps his first local renown.1
Old Phelps, like Dr.
Johnson, owes the lasting and intimate quality of his fame to a clever
biographer. In the "Atlantic" for May, 1878, Charles Dudley Warner
published an essay entitled "The Primitive Man," introducing a new
discovery to the world—an unwashed Thoreau of guidedom. As a result
Old Phelps awoke one morning to find
himself famous. He inquired into the cause, read it, and liked it.
Thereafter he devoted himself, too obviously at times, to living up to
the literary halo in which he had been most unexpectedly lassoed. It was
a big halo and it got around his feet and tripped him up now and then,
so that disappointed pilgrims returned from his shrine to accuse Warner
of having raised exaggerated hopes. The
deception, such as it was, however, was certainly not intentional. The
writer says nothing that is not essentially true, but he says it with
such grace and charm of phrase that we forget that a squeaky voice, the
reluctance to use soap, and allied oddities may be less alluring in
actual contact than in the pages of a book. This, it seems to me, is the
most serious charge that can be brought against Mr. Warner's inimitable
description of his primitive man. He says:
You might be misled by the shaggy suggestion of
Old Phelps's given name—Orson—into
the notion that he was a mighty hunter, with the fierce spirit of
the Berserkers in his veins. Nothing could be farther from the
truth. The hirsute and grisly sound of Orson expresses only his
entire affinity with the untamed and the natural, an uncouth but
gentle passion for the freedom and wildness of the forest. Orson
Phelps has only those unconventional
and humorous qualities of the bear which make the animal so beloved
in literature; and one does not think of Old
Phelps so much as a lover of nature,—to use the sentimental
slang of the period,—as a part of nature itself.
His appearance at the time when as a "guide" he
began to come into public notice fostered this impression,—a sturdy
figure, with long body and short legs, clad in a woolen shirt and
butternut-colored trousers repaired to the point of picturesqueness,
his head surmounted by a limp, light-brown felt hat, frayed away at
the top, so that his yellowish hair grew out of it like some
nameless fern out of a pot. His tawny hair was long and tangled,
matted now many years past the possibility of being entered by a
comb. His features were small and delicate, and set in the frame of
a reddish beard, the razor having mowed away a clearing about the
sensitive mouth, which was not seldom wreathed with a childlike and
charming smile. Out of this hirsute environment looked the small
gray eyes, set near together; eyes keen to observe, and quick to
express change of thought; eyes that made you believe instinct can
grow into philosophic judgment. His feet and hands were of
aristocratic smallness, although the latter were not worn away by
ablutions; in fact, they assisted his toilet to give you the
impression that here was a man who had just come out of the
ground,—a real son of the soil, whose appearance was partially
explained by his humorous relation to soap. "Soap is a thing," he
said, "that I hain't no kinder use for." His clothes seemed to have
been put on him once for all, like the bark of a tree, a long time
ago. The observant stranger was sure to be puzzled by the contrast
of this realistic and uncouth exterior with the internal fineness,
amounting to refinement and culture, that
shone through it all. What communion had supplied the place of our
artificial breeding to this man T
Perhaps his most characteristic attitude was
sitting on a log, with a short pipe in his mouth. If ever man was
formed to sit on a log, it was Old Phelps.
He was essentially a contemplative person. Walking on a
country road, or anywhere in the "open," was irksome to him. He had
a shambling, loose-jointed gait, not unlike that of the bear: his
short legs bowed out, as if they had been more in the habit of
climbing trees than of walking. On land, if we may use that
expression, he was something like a sailor; but, once in the rugged
trail or the unmarked route of his native forest, he was a different
person, and few pedestrians could compete with him. The vulgar
estimate of his contemporaries, that reckoned
Old Phelps "lazy," was simply a
failure to comprehend the condition of his being. It is the
unjustness of civilization that it sets up uniform and artificial
standards for all persons. The primitive man suffers by them much as
the contemplative philosopher does, when one happens to arrive in
this busy, fussy .world.
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| Text from Donaldson's "History of the Adirondacks" |
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