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Not much is known about this old
hotel. I remember that when I used to live in Ausable Forks it was
said that at one time Clintonville was competing with Albany to become our State
capital. The photo is from an old postcard that simply said Clintonville,
New York. I dug up the narrative below.from the following website:
http://www.rootsweb.com/~nyclinto/areahist/cltville.html
Reminiscences of Clintonville, New York
Authored by L. Grant Palmer in 1921
As I wandered slowly through the streets of the village of Clintonville, in
the year 1921, thinking of the past, there was brought to my mine one of the
pieces in one of the old reading books that we used to read in the Old Brick
School-house on the hill. The piece in the reading book was about a boy's
dream of Empire and how he would go away when he grew up and the fortune he
would make and then he would come back to his native town and the good
things that he would do for the village and the benefits that he would do
for the people, but when in after years he came back to his native village -
alas - he was content to wander through its streets and drop a silent tear
in memory of the brown eyed girl who used to sing in the church choir, and
whom the boy vowed he would marry, and for other departed ones. The lines of
the old song "Ben Bolt" came to my mind, and as I thought of the departed
glories of this picturesque old village and of the people who had gone, my
heart was filled with sadness, and the old saying that the saddest works of
tongue or pen were these "it might have been" came to my mind as the most
appropriate to express my thoughts, and involuntarily I found myself
whistling the tune of that old song so dear to the heart of everyone "Home
Sweet Home".
Clintonville was one of the earliest settlements on the Ausable River, and
received its greatest benefit as a village from its water power, which was
considered as among the best on the river, consisted of the power at the
upper dam, where was located the upper forge, sawmill, grist-mill, nail
works, and rolling mill; the lower dam fed a canal which was about one half
mile long, at the lower end of which was located the long forge which was
the largest "Catalin" forge in the world.
The Peru Steel Iron Co. manufactured iron here for a great many years and as
the village grew other industries started up until the village was
considered the metropolis of northern New York and was the first village on
the river that was incorporated.
Old residents used to tell of how the people came from Plattsburgh and the
surrounding country to trade and market their produce.
It has been stated on good authority that the best rolling mill north of
Troy was located here, but the great freshet of 1856 destroyed it and did
incalculable damage to the village in wiping out different industries. As
all of the iron industries were run by the Peru Steel Iron Co. They did not
rebuild the rolling mill or the nail factory, but the iron industry
flourished for a great many years after that, principally making iron
billets which were shipped away, and it has been stated on good authority
that a large part of the iron that went into the building of the first
ironclad ships that this country had came from here - there is no doubt but
that other iron forges that were located in different towns in this part of
the country contributed their share.
This narrative would not be complete without mention of the village of New
Sweden, which was located about two miles west of Clintonville on the road
to Ausable Forks. The village of New Sweden was a thriving little village up
to the time of its being destroyed by the freshet in 1866. There used to be
an iron forge and other industries located there, but only the stone
abutments of the bridge which used to cross the river and some old logs to
show where the dam used to be, and the old cemetery on the hill near the old
Ausable Station (now Rogers Station) are practically the only landmarks of
what was once a thriving village. The dam at New Sweden used to back water
above the point of rocks, or about one half mile. My mother, Jane McClurkin,
daughter of Hugh McClurkin, who lived two miles from New Sweden, attended
school there, and I have heard her tell that the river would be so full of
logs for the saw mills there that is was possible to walk on the logs from
the dam to the point of rocks without danger of getting ones feet wet. When
I was a small boy I remember seeing Hiram Beardsley tear down the old store
and take the timbers away.
At that time our family was living on what was known as the McLean farm and
one of our neighbors Mr. David Bean used to furnish feed and lodging for
several of the Tallyho stages that plied between Ausable Station and the
Summer resorts in the mountains and it need to fill my boyish heart with the
delight to see the old tally-ho coaches drawn by four or six horses swing
along the old plank road with the city tourists crowded on top of the
coaches. He could hear the rattle and roar of those cumbersome vehicles a
long distance. The most of the coaches used to have some long horns or
bugles which a favored passenger sitting beside the driver would
occasionally blow, awaking the echoes which would roll from hill to hill,
making a scene long to be remembered.
I must relate on circumstance that made a lasting impression on my mind
while we were living in New Sweden, and the river in one of its mad moments
was the indirect cause.
Mr. Albert Bullard, a basket maker by trade was living there with his family
which consisted of a boy named Charles and two girls, Florence and Maude -
Charles and one of the girls, I do not remember which one, being little
tots, evidently went to the spring which was a short distance from their
house down the river bank, for some water, while they were there they got to
playing about some row boats that were kept there and while playing in one
of the boats it became loosened from its moorings and started down the river
with the children in it. The water in the river being very high the boat
with the children was being rapidly swept down the stream when some of the
neighbors saw them and raised the alarm. My father William Palmer and my
half-brother Daniel Palmer were hammersmen and worked in the long forge at
Clintonville, the y used to work from twelve o'clock noon until twelve at
night, driving to and from their work. They were at home asleep when some of
the neighbors discovering the children in the boat came and wakened them.
Father and Dan immediately ran to the spring where there was another boat
and started in pursuit of the runaway boat. Father and Dan were strong,
fearless men but they realized that they had a hard job on their hands to
overtake the drifting children before they were swept over the upper dam at
Clintonville. News of the race for life had preceded them and the riverbank
at Clintonville was thronged with an eager, watchful mass of people
anxiously awaiting the outcome. They caught up with runaways just before
they reached the dam and it was an exciting moment as they caught up with
the other boat and snatched the children from their boat to their own almost
at the brink of the dam and it was an anxious moment as they fought their
way inch by inch against the current of the river as they gradually grew
nearer and nearer to the shore which they eventually reached exhausted. The
writer being a small boy at the time accompanied the distracted parents of
the children as they walked and ran down the highway, they had gotten near
the Tindale farm when they were met by the people bringing the rescued
children home.
The Saltmarshes, Ring's, Havens, Baldwins, Bean's, Burke's, Tindale's have
all gone from this vicinity, my uncle Daniel McClurkin, now in his 85th
year, is the only resident living in that vicinity. Richard Burke, or "Dick
Burke" as he was commonly known was probably the oldest man in the valley at
his death; he was about 115 years old when he died.
When I was about eight years of age we moved to Clintonville. Occupying the
large house near the long forge for five or six years.
The long forge was a stone structure 200 feet long and 75 feet wide; it had
16 fires or furnaces and four hammers. There was a bellows house at each end
of the forge where the air that fed the fires was compressed. This
compressed air was forced through an iron pipe about one foot in diameter,
the connection at each fire was through iron radiators about four inches in
diameter, thee radiators being inside of the furnace, the air was heated
before it eventually reached the fire itself through the tuyeres. There was
an ore bin near the center of the forge and one at the east end. This ore
had to be wheeled to the fire in cars especially made for the purpose.
This iron ore was mined at Palmer Hill. This iron mine was discovered by
Zephaniah Palmer, who was a Surveyor or Civil Engineer who used to live near
the mouth of the Ausable River, his people owning the property where Grant
Carpenter lives, they also owned some property near Walter Gidding's. The
house used to stand on the west side of the highway near Gidding's. His
people at one time owned all of the delta at the mouth of the river and for
years it was known as the Palmer Marsh. He was a brother of Lydia Palmer who
married John Dekalb of Jay, New York, this John Dekalb was a grandson of
Baron Dekalb for whom Lafayette laid the corner stone of his monument at
Camden, S.C., during his last visit to America.
Mr. Palmer came from one of the oldest families in America and they were
quite prominent in the affairs of northern New York. Zephaniah was like most
of the Palmer's he having the wanderlust in him to a large extent and it was
while wandering around on one of this travels that he discovered the iron
mine on the hill that bears his name. Mr. Palmer did not realize any
material benefit from his discovery financially and the property eventually
passed into the possession of the Rogers Company at Ausable Forks and the
Peru Steel Iron Co. of Clintonville. The ore for Clintonville was drawn from
Palmer Hill in wagons. The Company maintaining a plank road from the Hill to
the Point-of-Rocks where it joined the plank road on the main highway along
the river. There was at times quite a strife between the drivers of the ore
wagons as to which could draw the larger load from the mines to the
Separator which was located near the long forge at Clintonville, a distance
of five or six miles. It has been conceded that Richard Johnson, or Dicky
Johnson as he was commonly known, drew the heaviest load, he having drawn
something over six tons of iron ore in one load from the Hill to the
Separator with one team of horses. The ore when drawn to the Separator was
put into great pits, into which were first piled great piles of wood, this
wood was mostly second growth hardwood, cut pole length, and the ore was
piled on the wood to be burned slowly. This burning disintegrated the iron
from the refuse stone but not enough for commercial use, after the ore had
been burned it was drawn into the Separator where it was into the stampers
which crushed it into fine ore. There was a stream of water constantly
passing through the stampers while they were in operation; this stream of
water carried away the refuse matter. The fine ore when crushed was elevated
by buckets on a belt into bins from which they drew it in dump carts or
wagons to the forge.
There was a bank or pile of charcoal at the west end of the forge, this
charcoal bank was the largest pile of charcoal that I ever expect to see, as
there was frequently several million bushels piled up there. This charcoal
was made from the timber cut on the surrounding mountains. There were coal
kilns at Poke-O-Moon-shine, others at Auger Lake, and some near the forge at
Clintonville besides those at Black Mountain which were called the South
Kilns. I suppose they were called the South Kilns to distinguish them from
the West Kilns and Middle Kilns which were located West of Black Brook. The
most of the charcoal from the Middle and West Kilns went to supply the
forges at Black Brook, Ausable Forks and Jay. The South Kilns were the most
extensive of these owned by the Peru Steel Iron Co., as they owned quite an
extensive tract of timberland in the vicinity of Black Mountain. There were
other kilns or pits around the country at that time. This charcoal had to be
wheeled into the forge, being first put into oblong baskets holding about
two bushels each.
The process of making iron in those old Catalin forges was certain
interesting and it was a bad thing for northern New York when they went out
of business.
The fires or furnaces were made of brick and were approximately three feet
by five feet inside, the bottom or base of the furnaces where the loop of
molten iron was formed being about three feet square, the furnaces had an
iron shelf or threshold about a foot from the bottom or base of the furnace
and it was beneath this shelf or threshold that the slag or molten cinder
refuse matter was drawn off through vents in the furnace itself. At one side
of the furnaces there was a wooden box or trough about one foot wide and
about one foot deep by about four feet long which was kept filled with
water. There was also a space between the fires for their coal and ore, also
for the tools which they had to use. After the fire was started in the
furnace they would then sprinkle fine ore on the fire which being of
charcoal gave an intense heat and burned away without leaving any ashes to
amount to anything. As fast as the ore would melt they would sprinkle more
ore on the fire, adding fuel when necessary. Occasionally the fire would get
too hot and be in danger of burning the iron when they would dash a firkin
of water on it which would immediately quench it sufficient for their needs.
There did not appear to be any set rule to go by as to how often they would
have to sprinkle the fine ore on the fire or as to the heat of the fire,
these were matters for the bloomers to learn for themselves and it was this
ability to tell when matters were just right their degree of expertness was
shown. The above process was carried out for three hours when they used to
dig up, which means that they considered that they made of loop of iron in
that time which they then had to remove from the furnace. In digging up they
used long iron or steel bars which were called "Ringers". The loops of white
hot metal were saucer shaped and weighed approximately 300 pounds. In
digging up one man would gradually raise one side of the loop and three or
four would then get hold of it with long steel hooks and drag it over the
shelf in the front of the furnace and on to a small two wheel truck with an
iron platform on it, in fact all of the truck was of iron, they would then
draw it to the hammer where the hammersman would take hold of it with his
"Grampuses" and with the assistance of the others roll it up, on to the
hammer block where it was hammered down till the hammersman could get the
bloom tongs in it. It was then hammered down into a bloom of about eight
inches in diameter and about two feet long, one of it being hammered down to
a finished billet twelve or fifteen inches long by four inches square, the
bloom was then reversed and put back into the fire to be reheated, in the
meantime while the first bloom was being reheated they would dig up another
fire and go through the same process with that one that they did with the
previous one, this procedure was carried out until the four fires had been
dug up. When the bloom had been reheated it was hammered down to a finished
product which was called billets. These billets were about four inches
square and about two feet long. They were beveled on each four corners and
weighed about 100 pounds each.
When it is taken into consideration that this hammering was done under a
five ton hammer run by water power and that the men doing the hammering were
sitting on tongs about six feet away from the metal it is remarkable, as
they had to go wholly by the eye as to measurements and cutting off the
billets as well as beveling of the billets, it needed men of exceptional
mechanical ability and trueness of the eye. A good Hammersman, or one who
took pride in doing good work would turn the billets out within a sixteenth
of an inch of the measurement require, and as smooth as a piece of iron
could be that was merely hammered. In fact I have heard people ask how they
planed them so smooth. In doing the hammering they used what was called a
turnbat to turn the tongs holding the metal. The hammersmen all wore leather
patches on the seat of their pants, as they would wear holes in a new pair
of pants in a day or two without them. They also used leather aprons which
they tied to their waist, to ward off the sparks that flew from the iron.
They all wore woolen shirts and these shirts would have the front of them
burned full of small holes about the size of birdshot where the sparks would
strike them. It was extremely hot laborious work hammering iron. I have seen
the men get off the tongs after hammering a loop and pull their shirt up out
of their pants and wring the sweat out of it.
The hammers used in this forge weighed about five tons each and were
operated by waterpower. The water wheels used for operating the hammers were
large undershot wooden wheels which were hung on a shaft about eight or ten
inches in diameter. This shaft extended through the wheel to the hammer, on
the hammer end of this shaft there was a square iron casting two or three
feet square with a cam like lift or projection on each corner and when the
wheel was going this cam would strike the hammer brays, which were wooden
blocks inserted in the hammer, and raise the hammer, as the cam raised the
hammer to its full extent it would drop and the next cam would raise it, and
of course this process was kept up until the gate was closed.
The hammering of iron was mighty hard laborious job and only men of the
strongest muscles and physiques stayed in the business very long. In fact,
all of the bloomers were strong rugged men who worked hard and when they
played they played hard, and despite their hard work there were a lot of
them that were always playing jokes on each other. It was a luckless person
who went around the forge and put on airs or who tried to patronize the men
for they were sure to be the butt of some joke before they got away. I
remember that people on their way from the cities to the summer resorts
would occasionally stop off there and come to see them make iron. If they
were quiet and behaved themselves everything would invariably be all right
but if some tactless person began any antics, lo, the men would make magic,
and it would all be done in such an innocent manner that it was next to
impossible to locate the culprit, and the party would by lucky to get away
with nothing worse than a blackened face or hands. But for all the time it
has been proverbial for some city people to poke fun at some countryman that
they think they can have some fun with, and when some of that class of
people would be in the party the whole party would generally be due for a
hazing, but the hazing would be directed against the party who was looking
for it. One of the tricks that they used to spring on them was to take some
hot cinders or iron and get on the windward side of them and then put
something on the cinders or iron that would make an offensive odor, of
course when this was played there was usually some horse play connected with
it, which being among the workmen was wholly in fun, but if it was directed
against some stranger there generally was a lot of pushing and jostling
about to find out what it was with the natural result that the person on
whom the joke was played was lucky if he got nothing worse than a blackened
face and blackened hands besides the odor. One of the tricks that was
usually played on strangers who were looking for fun when there were ladies
in the party was to line them up at a safe distance from the hammer when
they were digging up, because of the shower of sparks that always flew from
the loop when they first began hammering and if any of the sparks hit them
it meant burning holes in their clothing, but the fun for the men was to see
the women grab their skirts and skeedaddle when then hammer began its
operations, the racket it made and the shower of sparks sent out together
with the yelling of the workmen was enough to frighten any person
uninitiated. The forge being dark except for the light from the fires made
the shadows seem darker than usual, especially after the illumination made
by the shower of sparks, and the floor being uneven it was not to be
wondered at that some of the ladies would trip or stumble or that a pair of
brawny arms would appear out of the darkness and catch them to prevent their
falling, but I have always wondered if it was not done on purpose to make a
chance for the lucky man to hug them up a bit, and I have no doubt but that
they improved their opportunity.
There used to be a large tree near the river bank near the east end of the
forge and the men at one time built a platform beneath the tree where they
would hold forth on an afternoon and have sports of different kinds. I
remember that at one time they had what they called a minstrel troupe and
the songs that they sang and the jokes that they cracked on each other were
surely amusing. They had a wash tub for a drum, some clappers or bones that
were held between the fingers, some harmonicas, Jews harps, tambourines and
a motley assortment of other things that they used to make a noise with,
occasionally someone would go for his horn and would find it filled with
black oil or something of that sort. Pat O'Neil who used to play the drum
would find it smeared with something, and of course it being wholly in fun
there would be more or less horse play whenever these tricks would be found
out. They would have games of pitching horseshoes, some hand ball practice,
feats of strength, etc. Among the feats of strengths Dan would generally
take the lead and as a general thing he was the center of any jollity that
was going on. I remember that one occasion they bloomers piled about 3000
pounds of iron on a wheelbarrow that they used for wheeling ore in and
wagered that there was not a man in the forge that could wheel it, but Dan
promptly walked up to it and picked it up and wheeled it a few feet. He was
a man of about six feet tall, weighing about 230 without any fat on him and
the feats of strength that he would engage in were certainly astonishing. He
was as good natured as he was large and was a man that was liked by everyone
who knew him.
The forge shut down for all time about 36 years ago, possibly 38 years. I
give below as near as I remember a list of the men who worked there during
the last years of the forge operations.
The hammersmen were William Palmer, Hugh Lawrence, Marsh Bresette, Sr.,
Daniel Palmer, Wallace Elliott, Marsh Bresette, Jr., Leonidas Williams
(called Onnie Williams), and there was one other but memory fails to bring
his name to mind. These hammersmen all had helpers but I do not recall who
they were except Earl Palmer and Charles Elliott.
There was Henry Morgan, Hugh Daugherty, Hiram Beardsley, Robert Chatterton,
John Hanmer, Tom Nailor, Henry Spinks, Samuel Gaskill, Pat O'Neil, James
O'Neil, Louis Carrow (?), Joe Nailor, John Burnham, James Lenaghan, William
Lenaghan, Tom Chard, William Cadigan, Jack Cadigan, Prescott Lawrence, Pat
Daly, Ransom Bowen. There were others but I do not recall their names. There
were other men who worked around the forge but I am just not sure as to what
their duties were. I think that Jimmie Carow was a bloomer and made iron
there. Mr. James Cochran was in charge of the coal bank and if memory serves
me right he also had charge of gauging the iron billets. Mike Rafter, Sr.,
and his son James Rafter worked under him, and I think that Martin Rafter
worked there also. George Kirby, Tom Rafter, Mart Williams, the McCale boys,
some men by the name of Reed and several others whose names I do not recall
at this time worked around the forge, but I do not recall just what they
did. William Morgan had charge of the Separator, and had several men under
him.
James Bigwood, Ben Elliott, Sam Casey, the Lehan boys, and some others were
blacksmiths and worked in the shop at the forge and at the long stone shop
near the upper dam. This shop was a machine shop and had some blacksmith
fires in it also.
Mr. Aubin, Legrand Wolfe, James Lawliss, I. Richard, and some others worked
in the sawmill and carpenter shop. I do not recall the name of the man in
charge of the grist mill.
As I remember the men who worked in the Company's office and store, there
were Mose Furgeson, Charley Furgeson, Mr. Kavanaugh, Mr. Coty, Samuel
Thomas, Washington Richardson, and later there were Myron Buck, Victor K.
Moore, Arch, Lacey, Frank McCormack, and I presume there were others.
Dick Johnson, William Johnson, the Daltons, Ike Smith, and a small army of
others drive teams hauling iron ore from the mines, drawing coal from the
kilns and drawing the finished iron to the Railroad Station at the point of
rocks three miles west of Clintonville, called at that time Ausable Station.
Mr. F.J. Dominick was the receiver for the company at the time when we were
boys around the old town. Elisha Stanton was Superintendent of the
timberlands with a general supervision of all of the outside operations.
Horatio Thomas was in charge of the inside operations with a general
supervision of the different operations of the company; I think it was while
looking after some timber job that he was taken sick, which culminated in
his death. I think that it was after Mr. Stanton's death.
I am informed that for a great many years previous to the building of the
Ausable branch of the Delaware & Hudson Railroad from Plattsburg to Ausable
Station that the Peru Steel Iron Co. had a dock at Port Douglas on Lake
Champlain and that they made that point their shipping point. I am not sure
as to whether thy maintained a plank road to Port Douglas or not, but rather
think that they did as there was a plank road to Port Kent where the Rogers
Company used to ship their product. This old plank road was called the Port
Kent and Hopkinton Turnpike. It extended up the Ausable Valley to Ausable
Forks, thence to Hopkinton by the way of Black Brook and Bloomingdale, in
all about 100 miles. This old plank road, or turnpike as they called it, was
one of the most important roads through this part of the country and
traveled entirely through the Adirondack mountain range. Old residents used
to tell of the travel on this road, they said that it was not unusual to see
a string of teams nearly a mile long taking their produce to and from the
markets along the river and shipping at the Lake ports. This plank road was
made of planks about eight feet long and three inches thick. The land on
each side of this old turnpike was taxed on each side for a width of three
miles. There were tollgates at intervals along this road, and I presume that
the income from those sources was quite large. After the railroad was built
to the point of rocks, the Rogers Co. and the Peru Steel Iron Co. made that
their shipping point and the plank road from Clintonville to Keeseville was
abandoned. A person riding along our fine highways now in their expensive
automobiles cannot have any idea of the business activities that were so
extensive along the valley years ago, or of the benefit to the teaming
operations, that the old plank road was to the early settlers and the early
business activities. When my mother's father settled on the farm two miles
this side of Ausable Forks, there was no highway along the river between
Ausable Forks and Clintonville, the road at that time went over the plains
and for years while the tollgates between Ausable Forks and Clintonville
were kept open people traveled the road over the plains to avoid paying the
toll.
There was a man named Place that worked for E. Feltt when Mr. Feltt kept a
store at Clintonville. He was a very old man at the time and it certainly
was a treat to hear him tell of the teaming activities up and down the river
in the early days. He hold among other tales of the teaming that was done
between Port Kent and Burlington in the winter. He told about their
maintaining a half way house on Lake Champlain at that time where people
could stop and get warm, besides getting refreshments.
I will touch lightly upon the past activities, or those that occurred
previous to the time when I was a boy and went to school in Clintonville, as
they were before my recollections and are more or less a matter of history.
John and Jehiel Beardsley came to the Ausable Valley in the year 1794 when
the valley was an impenetrable wilderness and settled near Clintonville on
what is now known as the Keith farm. There is a small cemetery there and it
is probably the oldest cemetery in the valley. It is now overgrown with
bushes and if a person did not know it was there they would pass by without
realizing what it was, or think it a mass of stone or some defect in the
land that had been fenced in. Other settlers followed them and in 1810 the
first dam was built at Clintonville by George Griswold who built a forge and
two fires or furnaces and a gristmill. These passed into the hands of the
Peru Iron Steel Co. who began operations in about 1811 or 1812. I do not
know where they got the iron ore for this forge but it is presumed that it
came from what was known as the Winter Iron Ore Mine north of Clintonville
about one mile. This ore bed is said to be one of the oldest in this north
country. It has been worked quite extensively, but it has been said that it
did not make as good iron as the ore from Arnold Hill or Palmer Hill. The
ore at Palmer Hill is said to be the only ore known in which are united the
qualities of the magnetic and specular ores. As Mrs. Palmer, daughter
Dorothy, granddaughter Marjorie Galston and myself wandered over this hill
past where the O'Neill's lived, thence up by the ore bed to Lily Pond where
we ate our lunch and gathered arbutus and then back to the brow of the hill
where being weary I sat down to rest myself and enjoy the view that can be
had from this hill as it is one of the most extensive that can be had from
any point in the valley, and it is so accessible that it is a wonder that
more people do not go there and enjoy it. This hill is only about 500 feet
above the floor of the valley and from its sides or top can be seen old
Whiteface Mountain standing like a sentinel in the west, with Esther
Mountain, Marble Mountain and the Wilmington range on the north of it. In
the near distance in the Southwest can be seen Ragged Mountain, Haystack,
Clarks, Hamlin, and Jay mountains while in the far Southwest can be seen
Sentinel Peak, Pitchoff and Cascade mountains, and Boreas range. In the
south through the Trout Pond pass can be seen Ellis Mountain, Bald Mountain,
and Black Mountain, while in the nearer distance can be seen
Poke-O-Moonshine, Baldface, and Hogback Hill and Fordway mountains besides
Keetans Mountain which is just across the river from the old forge, and the
Ausable can be seen for miles winding its way down the valley to Lake
Champlain.
As we came down the hill back of the School House and Catholic Church, the
passing of time with its evolutions became forcibly to mind. Part of the
school house was boarded up and had the appearance of not having been used
for a long time. The Catholic Church which stands near the school was one of
the first houses of worship that were erected in the valley. It was formerly
a Presbyterian Church and was erected in 1828. It is said that the Peru
Steel Iron Co. donated $100.00 per annum to the church. Among the many
changes that have been wrought by the ruthless hand of time there is one
that deserves mention, and consideration by the thoughtful. The Presbyterian
or Congregational was formerly one of the most influential religious
societies in the valley, but at the present time there is not a church of
those denominations that has a resident pastor in the Ausable Valley.
As we gazed about the old town our eyes rested on the large barn that stands
on the north side of the highway at the foot of the hill where the old
schoolhouse stands. This barn was known to us boys as the Mule Barn. It is
about 60 feet by 120 feet and is one of the largest, if not the largest,
barn in this part of the country. It used to be filled with horses and mules
owned y the company. It gives but a small idea of the extent of the teaming
operations of the company, and besides the company's teams there were a
great persons thus engaged who owned their own teams. My grandfather Hugh
McClurkin kept three or four teams drawing from Ausable Forks to Port Kent,
and it was while driving team for him that the late Captain Thomas Arbuckle
became acquainted with the Transportation Company operating on Lake
Champlain and secured a position with them, eventually being made Captain of
one of their vessels, and for a great many years he was Captain of the
Steamer Vermont.
There were a great many towns around Clinton, Franklin, and Essex counties
in the early days of the iron industry and an idea of the extent of the
business can be had from the fact that in 1877 the forges in Clinton and
Franklin counties produced 24,000 tons while the forges in the rest of the
country produced but 4,000 or 5,000 tons. Clintonville appears to have been
the center or rather the greatest producer of all of them, and besides the
forge iron that they produced, they made a lot of cut nails and bar iron in
the rolling mill.
When our thoughts returned to the school and its surroundings and
associations, of the teachers and scholars who formerly attended there it
would be almost impossible to describe my feelings as memory rapidly
reviewed past events with their sorrows and joys. The arguments and scraps
that we boys used to have and the making up afterwards, all of which I
realize now was life on a small scale. As some of the girls were want to say
- it is lots of fun to have scraps for the fun of making up afterwards - but
we boys used to say that it was bad for the eyes. We used to play ball back
of the schoolhouse during the noon hour and at recesses, some of us younger
boys playing "one old cat" while the larger boys played what they called
"bases". The yelling that was done at our play was something to live in
memory for all time.
At the time of which I write there were about one hundred scholars in all
going to school there. I will give a list of them as I remember at this
time.
William Stanton, now in Saranac Lake, NY;Lucien Wolfe; William Misner; James
Misner went to Northampton, Mass.; Harry Morgan went to Lowell, Mass.; John
and George Burnham, I think went to Maine; Bert Gaskill went to Nashua, N.H.;
Victor Moore, now at Ausable Forks, N.Y.; Frank McCormack in Spokane, Wash.;
Myers White, went to California; Erwin and Richard (Dick) Lawliss went to
Barre, Vt; Earl Keith in Upper Jay, N.Y.; my brother Walter Palmer and
William Palmer and myself went to Keeseville, N.Y.; Wilfred Pine and Orville
Pine went to Montpelier, Vt.; Henry Pine, now in Keeseville; Whitney
Stranahan, went to Connecticut; Charley Lenaghan went to Connecticut;
William Thwaits, John Thwaits, Mitch Bigwood, William Newell, Eddie
Beardsley are in Clintonville, N.Y. I think the two Aubin boys went to
Ausable Forks, and that Benny Elliott is now in Wilmington, N.Y., Robert
(Bob) Chatterton and Emerson Chatterton lived in Clintonville for a long
while but I do not know where they are now. Thomas and Frank Rafter went to
Burlington, Vt. I do not recall where Byron Carrow, the two Spinks boys, the
Bresette boys, the Boprey boys, John O'Neil, Arch, Ned, William and James
Lacey, Anthony McCale and George Beardsley are located. Besides the above
named boys there were the two Ashe boys and their sister from Green Street,
Allie Richardson and George Kerr from the Trout Pond District.
The girls names as I recall them now were Essa Moore; Fannie, Alice and
Lizzie Morgan; Florence, Fannie, May and Nellie Sweeney; Mamie Nailor;
Theresa Andrews; Kate Rafter; the Shaughnessy girls; Kittie, Effie and Alma
Wolfe; Nellie Stanton; Annabelle and Bertha McCormack; Bertha Chatterton;
Rebecca Daugherty; Anna and Ella Burnham; Anna Palmer; Lottie Burtt; Bina
and Myrtie Burtt; Libbie White; Ella Moore; Carrie and Ada Sanders; Alta
Feltt; Kittie Keese; Nellie Smith; Ella Gaskill; Mina and Addie Pine; Annie
and Lizzie Daugherty; Anna Thwaits; Maude Cobb and her sister; the two Tefft
girls; a DeMar girl; the two Currier girls and others whose names I do not
recall at this time.
In the winter it was sliding downhill, skating and snowballing. The
snowballing generally occurred at school during the noon hour and at
recesses. There were 15 or 20 minutes during recess during the forenoon and
for a like time in the afternoon. There was woe in the school whenever a
scholar did some prank in school that the teacher thought was serious enough
to discipline the scholar by keeping them after school at night or kept them
in at recess. Of course there were days in the winter when it was unpleasant
playing out of doors and at such times the pranks that were played in the
schoolhouse were something to dream about. All of the pranks were not played
at noon or at recess. When a boy would set down on a bent pin placed in his
seat, there would be a howl and of course more or less tittering, or perhaps
a spit ball, or a bean from a pea shooter would hit a person by the side of
the head, there would invariably be more to it. Sometimes the teacher would
be called to the door for a minute, when bedlam would be let loose.
Sometimes three or four would all want to get a drink at the same time and
at such times unless the teacher was on the watch for some deviltry someone
was sure to get a mouthful of water or tip the water bucket over. This was
usually done just after recess or just after the bell rang for school at one
o'clock and of course as it was an accident, two boys would be sent after
more water. I recall one instance that came near being a riot - some scholar
did something that called for more serious punishment than staying after
school and the teacher started in to give them a whipping with a long switch
that they had for the purpose, it being a lady teacher, and the boy not
liking the idea of taking the licking, or had gotten what he thought was
enough, anyway he started on a run around the room with the teacher after
him and of course the excitement was quickly communicated to the rest of us
and we all were on our feet urging one and then the other to greater effort.
It finally culminated in their getting near the stove and as they rushed
around the stove the boy caught hold of the stove pipe and down it came,
scattering soot and ashes over the room. In the meantime, or rather during
the excitement of the stove pipe coming down, the culprit dashed out of
doors and was not seen at school for several days. It took some time to put
the stove pipe back in place and clean up the room. I have always thought
that the lad's father must have finished the disciplining of the boy as the
teacher did not try to punish him when he returned to school. One of the
hardest punishments that we had to endure for breaking the discipline of the
school was to hold a knot in the floor down, and, of course, the sarcasm
that the teacher would usually give with the punishment itself. We early
learned not to peach on each other but if the party that was punished could
not take the joke on himself and enjoy the jibes that were always indulged
in after school, there would be a scrap with the consequent making up after
he had got over being sore. The teachers were in the main kind-hearted and
true, but I remember one man teacher that we had that got the ill will of
most of his pupils and what they did not do to bother him was surely a
corker. I don't think that anything was done to destroy any property or even
mar it, but he acted as his own janitor during the winter. He would very
frequently find the keyholes in the doors plugged, especially the outside
door. Sometimes it would merely be water that had been poured into the
keyhole some cold night and allowed to freeze. It would take him a long time
to get the ice removed from the keyhole enough for the key to work and open
the door, but sometimes he would find sand or shingle nails frozen in the
ice and whenever that happened there would usually be several scholars that
had arrived a little early and they would stand around and shiver and offer
suggestions. When he had gotten the obstructions removed it would be rather
late and the rooms would not be heated sufficiently and then there would be
grumbling and growling. He always blamed the filling of the keyholes and
such tricks on the boys who brought their dinners to school, but I daresay
no scholar that took their dinner to school was ever guilty of any of these
tricks. He seldom, if ever, tried to punish any of the larger boys and never
any of the girls. The punishment finally ceased when he called one of the
smaller boys up for punishment, when the boy's big sister got and called him
down and told him then and there that none of the scholars that brought
their dinners were guilty of the offense. She was a loyal buddy - she would
not even tell who brought their dinners and we all took our cue from her and
none of us knew anything. I guess he finally found out all about it because
did not teach the last day of school and I have no doubt but that he heard
something about what the large boys planned to do.
We used to slide down the hill on the hill near Sweeney's farm, and on what
was called French Hill, which is at the head of the street that turns
between the Company's office and store, and in fact on any hill that made
good sliding. I remember one instance that happened to my brother Walter
when we were sliding down the hill back of the Catholic church. There is a
sharp corner where that street joins the main street and he had gotten to
the corner of the street when he saw a team almost across the street ahead
of him which made it impossible to make the turn and go down by Feltt's
store and he headed for the horses themselves intending to shoot through but
he could not do it and he grasped the pole as he went under the team. The
driver stopped the team as quickly as possible, expecting that he had run
over the boy but Walter climbed up on the pole between the horses without
even a scratch. Some of us boys made some skippers on which we would slide
down the steeper hills - gee, but how we would go. One winter we made some
wooden jumpers about four feet long by two feet wide and about a foot high.
They were made out of green hardhack peeled . We would go over on Keetan's
mountain and slide down the mountain where there was an old wood road. This
old road was very steep in places and we would go like jehu, sometimes we
would jump out of the road and go crashing through the bushes that lined the
road on each side. Of course we would occasionally break a jumper but as
there were lots of other small hardhacks growing on the mountain we would
make another and go to it harder than ever. It certainly was a wonder that
we never suffered any broken bones or other serious injury. I have thought
since those days that if our boys did as we boys did would we worry. Our
mother used to worry quite a bit and appeared to be thankful when we were
all around the fireside where she could watch over us. The fathers of the
boys around the village did not appear very much concerned over the boys if
we all kept from doing any damage to property or other malicious mischief.
Whenever there had been a hard wind in the winter there were several places
that great drifts would form and we boys thought it great fun to jump into
them from some ledge or rocks or burrow into them and make snow houses. It
was while one of these expeditions that George Beardsley got stuck in a deep
drift. The snow was rather soft and George made a rather high jump and went
in above his waist and could not get out. We did not have anything to dig
with except some branches that we broke off some trees and our hands, but
how we did dig. George was rather badly chilled when we got him out as the
snow being soft was almost like ice when it was packed. George was rather an
unlucky lad at times. He at one time skated into the open water where some
men were cutting ice and if the men had not been there and working on the
downstream side of the opening he would have been swept under the ice and
drowned as the water was quite swift at that point, but they held out their
pike poles and as he grasped the pole they drew him to one side and some
others pulled him out. There were more places around Clintonville where good
skating could be had than any place that I ever knew of. There were the
sloughs back of Robert Chatterton's and down on Sweeney's farm which would
freeze over as soon as the cold weather set in, then the river between the
two dams would freeze next and as the water was usually still they would be
as smooth as could be. After those places froze over, the river would freeze
above the upper dam and below the lower dam The canal was nearly always good
skating because of the lowering and raising of the ice as they raised and
lowered the gates at the forge, and if at any time there did not happen to
be any smooth ice, they would allow the water to overflow the ice in the
canal by closing the head gates and as the ice lowered they would open them
when the water would flow over the ice and make it as good as ever. Then
there was Lily Pond which is on top of Winter Hill back of the village. This
pond would usually be good skating during the latter part of the winter when
the snow had begun to settle as the water in the marshes surrounding the
pond being frozen would flow out onto the pond. On Saturdays and at night
and after school hours, some of the places would be crowded with skaters -
the men from the offices and stores, the big boys and the little boys, the
frown women and young girls vying with each other in having a good time.
Nearly every winter the ice in the river would break up and if the thaw was
of long enough duration to clear the whole river, the ice would generally
pile up in all manner of ways near the old forge and on the island just
above it so that between the lower dam and the lower forge the ice would be
piled up in all conceivable shapes, and then the water would freeze again
and what times we boys would have making roads through and between and the
ice cakes. Some of the ice cakes would be piled in such a manner as to form
quite large rooms or caverns beneath them, and it was great sport playing at
different games among the ice cakes which we called icebergs. There was a
small swamp back of where George Kirby lived at the foot of Keetan's
mountain where we would go sometimes when we were tired of sliding downhill,
the cedars being very thick we would tie the top of several of them together
and by trimming off the branches on the inside of the place enclosed and
piling the branches on the outside, or cutting some others to pile on the
outside and using the branches that we cut off the inside to put on the
ground we had quite a comfortable little camp, especially when we made a
fire. There we would sit on our sleds and tell stories. Occasionally we
would go to Tom Perkett's shanty near the coal kilns that were below the
forge, and the stories that were told at such times were sure corkers.
In the spring, after marbles had been played and fought over, would come
other sports and berrying time when we would go over on to the surrounding
hills and mountains gathering berries. There used to be great quantities of
red raspberries on Keetans Mountain and during the season there was hardly a
fair day that there were not several of the boys and girls there, and when
we had gotten our pails filled, we boys would go and roll rocks down the
mountain just to hear the noise. During the season for blueberries, we would
go up on to Winter hill and on the hills back of Lily Pond, or over on to
old Hogback, Pigback, and even over on Baldface which is near
Poke-O-Moonshine. When school was out in the spring or early summer, Father
would tell us to get our old duds on and have a good time, but to be careful
and not commit any malicious mischief like destroying of property or causing
anyone annoyance, and after one lapse from the path outlined for us we were
careful not to try another. The time that I speak of was when we were over
on Keetan's mountain playing, climbing ledges and rolling rocks down the
side of the mountain. We conceived the idea of setting fire to some pine
stumps which burned in fine shape and we had a lot of fun watching them
burn, and they were still burning when we went home, but we did not reach
home for the reason that our fathers met us at the river crossing and made
us go back and put the fires all out which took us till late in the evening,
and when it is understood that we worked like Trojans for several hours
without any supper it is small wonder that we were completely cured of the
idea of having any fun in that manner. When I was about ten or twelve years
of age, we used to have some slings with which we used to throw stones. I
remember that I had two, on with short strings to throw in the air and one
with longer strings for throwing a long distance. We became very proficient
in throwing with those slings, frequently killing blackbirds which used to
bother the corn in the gardens, and at one time when one of the neighbors
cow broke into the garden about ten rods from the house, I put a stone in
the sling and hollered at the cow thinking that if she got out without
driving I would let her go at that, but she merely raised her head and
looked at me and began feeding again. I called to her again and when she
looked up the second time, threw the stone which struck her in the forehead
and dropped her to her knees. I was certainly scared at that, but she got
right up again, shook her head, and got out of the garden as quickly as she
could. It certainly was fortunate that I did not throw the stone very swift
as it would have killed her on the spot, but she was never known to break
into our garden again. We were in the habit of carrying the slings with us
wherever we went and one day while at school one of the larger boys borrowed
one of our slings and standing in the highway near the mule barn which
stands at the base of the hill where the schoolhouse stands, threw a stone
across the river to the top of the hill where the old powder house still
stands. |